mikilee
Matrose
Joined: 17 September 2020
Location: France
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Posts: 9
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| Posted: 08 April 2021 at 08:19 | IP Logged
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There’s something inherently poetic about the moon-phase
complication, but this latest Little A Lange Sohne Lange
1 Moon Phase takes that idea to a whole other level. This
latest iteration of Lange’s small-but-mighty classic is
all about the new dial treatment, which is a dark blue
“gold flux” material that sparkles like the night sky.
It’s a very similar material to what most brands call
“aventurine” or “aventurine glass,” with tiny
particles suspended in a glassy medium, giving it a ton
of visual depth and a bit of shine. To continue the
astronomical theme, the hour markers are tiny white gold
stars (between the classic Roman numerals at 12-3-6-9),
and the moon-phase disc has an applied white gold moon
and 628 additional stars.
If all of that sparkle isn’t enough for you, there’s a
version of this watch with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds
adorning the bezel (1.2 total carats) for a little extra
oomph. You might not need it, but it certainly doesn’t
hurt.
Technically speaking, this Little A Lange Sohne Lange 1
Moon Phase is identical to its cousins from the last few
years. The 36.8mm case is a fantastic size for many
different wrists (both male and female, I might add) and
the caliber L121.2 is one of the new-generation Lange
calibers, so you’re getting great tech inside too.
There’s a lot of complexity packed into this relatively
small watch, and it’s one we’re really looking forward
to seeing in the metal very soon.
At first glance, this watch might seem like Lange just
throwing a new dial on an existing watch, but there’s a
lot more to it than that. This watch is the culmination
of a few different ideas that’ve been simmering at Lange
for years, and it’s actually a great microcosm of what
the brand has been doing with its so-called “small
complications” over the past half-decade or so.
First off, there’s the movement. The caliber L121.2 is
based on the L121.1, which replaced the L901.0 as the
“standard” Lange 1 caliber in 2015. On top of that, it
has Lange’s new moon-phase complication, which is
accurate for up to 122.6 years without needing any
adjustments (assuming you survive that long and keep your
watch wound).
Then there’s the gold flux dial. We’ve seen this used
on simple watches in both blue and black so far, but this
is the most expressive implementation yet. This gold flux
/ aventurine / whatever-you-want-to-call-it material has
become trendy, especially among more design-minded
watchmakers (Van Cleef have been the masters at this for
some time), but it’s nice to see Lange implement it in a
way that goes beyond it simply being pretty.
The result of this confluence is a watch that’s much
greater than the sum of its parts. But the parts aren’t
too shabby.
If you’ve spent as long in and around the luxury watch
industry as I have, you’ll know the feeling I’m about
to describe: sometimes, you love a brand for all the
right reasons and adore its products because each and
every one has a distinct character, a story to tell, or a
level of craftsmanship that blows your mind without
seemingly having to try, and yet somewhere, in the back
of your mind, you feel like there might be more to come.
Often, in ways we cannot predict, brands are still able
to surprise us. And, in doing so, show us a vision of
something yet more majestic that could be just around the
corner. The A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase
first bewitched me, before sending me on a journey…
If there is one complication I feel A. Lange & Söhne
Kleine Lange 1 Moonphase pulls off better than any other
brand, it is the moonphase complication. That isn’t to
say the Lange moonphase is the most accurate, most
creative, or most integral part of the watch’s design,
but I am suggesting that when it comes to a mixture of
dial balance and aesthetic execution of the complication
itself, there is no better brand. Here we see the
moonphase complication take center stage, with the kind
of starry, starry night that would make Don McLean proud
spilling out all over the dial. Instead of the sleek,
subtle dials we’re used to seeing Lange’s moonphase
windows enliven, we have a dark blue gold flux background
sprinkled with copper particles. The effect is dazzling
and the legibility, thanks to rhodiumed Roman markers and
hands, is satisfyingly strong.
The theme is continued on the white gold lunar disc,
which is decorated with 628 stars of its own. If that
dial-side sparkle wasn’t enough for you, you have the
option of teaming this Little A. Lange & Söhne Kleine
Lange 1 Moonphase with a diamond-decked bezel. If you go
for that option, your 36.8mm wide white gold case will be
topped by 56 brilliant-cut diamonds.
These kinds of aesthetic “specs” normally accompany
watches with very little of interest going on behind the
dial. Nothing could be further from the truth here. This
watch uses the in-house L121.2 caliber, which will record
an accurate moonphase for 122.6 years if allowed to run
continuously. Assuming that you occasionally allow the
72-hour power reserve to run down, however, a quick
adjustment of the moonphase indicator can be performed
using the corrector between 7 and 8. The same is true for
the big date complication, which can be advanced using
the recessed pusher between 10 and 11 o’clock also.
Here’s a tiny thing that may have escaped your
attention: the stars in between the time dial’s cardinal
points are in two sizes. The markers for 1, 4, 7, and 10
o’clock are small stars. Conversely, the markers for 2,
5, 8, and 11 o’clock are bigger. The Roman Numerals that
mark 12, 3, 6, and 9 are even bigger than the big stars.
What this does to our eyes is pull them in a clockwise
direction around the time dial. While it may seem jarring
at first to use three sizes of hour marker arranged in
this fashion, it is a clever way to add a bit of vitality
to the time dial, which itself does not benefit from a
going seconds hand (that overlays the moon disc). A small
thing, perhaps, but it is the kind of design element
worth noting and discussing. Let us know how you feel
about it in the comments below!
Picking up where my first paragraph left off, I have been
on a journey with this watch. In many ways, this is one
of my favorite releases from A. Lange & Söhne for a
while, but it instantly gave birth to an idea I would
like to see put into practice. My favorite complication
Lange currently produces is the day/night indicator used
in conjunction with the moonphase complication. This has
been forsaken here in favor of a totally consistent blue
tone. While I appreciate the crisp cleanliness of the
result, I’d like to see that day/night indicator
alongside this starry display.
Additionally, I would like to see the above modification
packaged in one of A. Lange & Söhne’s honey gold cases.
I think the rare, warm tones of honey gold would look
absolutely divine next to this dark blue gold flux dial
(with honey gold hands, date window frame, markers, and
moons to boot). For me, fusing this new dial with those
existing Lange specialties would result in a watch too
beautiful for words.rado
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Edited by mikilee on 08 April 2021 at 08:20
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Topic: A. Lange Sohne Kleine Lange 1 Moonphase
